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Many people try to find solutions to problems without even knowing what causes the problem. Dog owners are no different; they try to stop their puppies from biting without the knowledge of why the puppy is biting. “For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction” Isaac Newton’s third law of motion. Everything happens for a purpose and a reason and dog biting is no exception. Puppies will bite and if you keep a close eye on your new pet you can learn why they bite.

The most common cause of puppy biting is the result of teething. Puppies will teeth between 4 to 6 months with a maximum age of 10 months. It is a very painful stage for young pups so they bite to sooth their gums around their new teeth. Their jaws are also weak which limits the amount of force needed to bite so they compensate by gnawing. So with a combination of a weak jaw and sharp needle point teeth the developing puppy will inflict numerous play bites as a feedback mechanism to determine the force of their bites which will also strengthen their jaws as they grow.

The more opportunities your puppy has to play bite with other people, dogs, and other animals the greater the chance your dog will bite as an adult. The responsibility of teaching bite inhibition lays with you the owner.

Another very important factor is socialization. A lack of socialization with puppies between the age of 3 weeks to 3 months with people and other dogs can lead to growling and ultimately biting, Apart from teething and socialization, be aware that puppies explore objects in their environment, they not like us they have paws and not hands so they use their mouths to do their exploration.

As a responsible dog owner do not tolerate aggressive behavior from either a puppy or an adult dog. Also never lose sight in the fact that dogs do what they feel is correct no matter what the situation. In order to avoid biting and behavior problems it is best to prevent them from forming.

Copyright Bryan Collins - http://puppytrainingpro.blogspot.com

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Do you ever read about a dog breed and discover that a particular breed can be prone to a number of diseases - most of which you can’t understand? Are you in the process of choosing a dog and you want to know which breed-specific hereditary disease that the breeder should have screened out in the breeding stock?

Most breeders spend a lot of time and resources trying to get rid of genetic diseases in their lines. However, some amateur breeders and puppy mills are breeding dogs without screening the parents and perpetuating poor genetic health.

This article is not exhaustive but will attempt to describe some common hereditary musculoskeletal diseases and indicate some of the dog breeds that have shown a tendency to inherit these diseases in the past. Since so many dogs have inherited orthopedic problems, these disorders are extremely well researched and studied. If you want to check on a particular dog breed you can go to www.dog-breed-facts.com and search on a particular breed for its health issues.

There are a number of common inherited diseases for which reputable breeders screen their breeding stock. The Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) has specialists evaluate X-rays, DNA, thyroid, cardiac and other tests and register the results. A prospective pure-bred puppy buyer should ask to see the OFA results for the dog’s sire and dam.

Chondrodysplasia or dwarfism in the legs is a disease that causes malformation of the carpal and radius bones of the front legs resulting in a stunted and bowed look. Puppies born with this disease do not show any signs until they grow older. The disease can be painful and often the only choice is to euthanize the dog. This disease is most common in the Alaskan malamute and the Beagle.

Elbow dysplasia is a hereditary disease in which the elbow joints of the front legs are malformed. Lameness usually makes its appearance around 7 to 10 months of age and is treated by anti-inflammatories and also surgery. All breeds are susceptible to the disease but it is most common in large male breeds. These breeds include the: Basset hound, Bernese mountain dog, Bloodhound, Bouvier des Flandres, Chow Chow, German shepherd, Golden retriever, Great Pyrenees, Irish wolfhound, Labrador retriever, Mastiff, Rottweiler, Saint Bernard and Weimaraner.

Hip dysplasia is a disorder that results when there is a loose fit of the ‘ball and socket’ hip joint and the ball may continuously slide part way out of the socket. Over time this will cause osteoarthritis in the joint and the dog will become lame and weak in the hind end. Some relief can be found with the use of nutriceuticals such as glucosamine and chondroitin, and anti-inflammatories. Some cases are so bad that the dog must have surgery or be euthanized. Ensuring that your dog isn’t overfed and overweight can delay the onset of hip dysplasia. Larger breeds that grow fastest during the first four months seem to be more prone to this disease. Hip dysplasia is the most common inherited orthopedic disease in large and giant breeds and many medium-sized breeds as well.

Legg-Calve-Perthes is a disease of the hip joint where the ball or head of the femur deteriorates and causes pain and lameness in the hind leg. This disease usually affects young small dogs aged from 4 to 12 months. This condition is successfully treated by surgery. This disorder can affect all terriers, Chihuahuas, Dachshunds, Miniature pinscher, Miniature poodles, Pugs and Toy poodles.

Panosteitis or ‘pano’ is a common condition which suddenly causes lameness in a growing puppy or adolescent dog. The lameness is a result of inflammation of the long bones of the front and hind legs and can be mild to severe. A veterinarian will probably prescribe pain medication and ask you to restrict exercise. Affected puppies usually grow out of the condition as they mature. It is most common in male medium- to giant-sized dog breeds which include the: Afghan Hound, Basset hound, Doberman pinscher, German shepherd, Great Dane, Great Pyrenees, Labrador retriever and Rottweiler.

Luxating Patella (Patellar luxation) or slipped stifle is a hereditary condition where the knee cap slips out of its groove. In some cases, the kneecap will slip back into place while in other cases; a veterinarian may need to put it back in place. If it is not corrected through surgery, then osteoarthritis will usually result. The condition is quite prevalent in toy breeds. It is commonly seen in the Affenpinscher, Australian terrier, Basset hound, Boston terrier, Chihuahua, Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, English Toy Spaniel, Maltese, Papillon, Pekingese, Pomeranian, Poodle (miniature and toy) and Lhasa Apso.

Mike Mathews is a contributing writer and editor for the popular dog breed site: http://www.dog-breed-facts.com. He provides informative, real-world advice and tips on dog breeds, dog health, dog grooming and more. As well be sure to check out his free report on Dog Training.

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If you are a hunter, you have to have binoculars. Though your eyes may be good and your aim may be wonderful, there are still times when these come in very handy. You may be able to see what is nearby, but wouldn’t it be great to see what might be coming your way long before it comes into the range of normal eye site? My father is a hunter, and he won’t go out into the woods without his hunting binoculars. Last year I bought him a new pair for Christmas because he had had the same pair forever, and he said he really appreciated the new and improved brand that we bought for him.

You can buy hunting binoculars in all types of strength. Some magnify only 20 times, and some go much higher. It depends on where you hunt and what type of game you usually are looking for while out. If you hunt in an area that has a lot of hills and deep forest, you might not need something that is very strong, however, that is up to you. If you hunt in wide open spaces, you definitely want something that is super strong so you can see as far as you need to see.

They also make hunting binoculars that have a feature to keep them steady. If you have ever tried to look at something that is a long ways away by looking through hunting binoculars, you know that things can be quite shaky no matter how steady you try to hold them. There are some that come with protection from this type of shaking. They aren’t perfect, but they can help you stay steady when you are searching far off into the distance.

You can find hunting binoculars in outdoor and sports stores, and you can also find them online. Though you can’t try them out online, you may find better prices that way. You could even go to a store and see what you like, and then see if you can find a better price online. A good set of hunting binoculars is going to be expensive, so taking some time to find the best brand for the best price is always a great idea. Just be sure to find a company that has a return policy if you order online just incase they arrive broken or you don’t get the model you ordered.

Peter Curtis is a keen hunter and loves writing about it too. More information about Hunting equipment or the more general Hunting and Fishing Articles

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Since the Shih Tzu breed first became known to the western world there has been a variety of colors. The first and second prize winners at the Shanghai Kennel Club Show of May 30, 1930 were all black in color. These two solid black Shih Tzu were probably among the first Shih Tzu to ever appear in a western show ring. Their photographs can be seen in the China Journal June and August 1930 issues.

Black and white Shih Tzu was also frequently seen of the early days in the western world. Black and white Shih Tzu can still be “very” striking and are still a favorite of many Shih Tzu fanciers.

There are different opinions as to exactly what color was the favored color at the Imperial Palace. It has been said often that the golden-yellow, sometimes described as honey was the favorite color and only kept in the palace. There are countless entries in our passages of Shih Tzu history that tell us the Empress Dowager’s favorite Shih Tzu of all times was a solid black she called “Sea Otter.” There are also accounts that three of the Empress Dowager’s sleeve dogs were greyish-white.

The mention of solid white Shih Tzu in later standards reflect the fact that there was a leading French breeder in Peking who had a large number of all-white Shih Tzu. There has always been questions as to whether or not it was probably more the westerners who appreciated the solid white, as the Chinese saw the color white as a color of mourning.

It would be safer to say and believe that since yellow was the imperial color, a fact readily known by the golden-yellow tiled roofs of the Peking Palace. Yellow dogs were also more lion-like in appearance. The word “Shih Tzu” means “Lion” in Chinese. The Chinese tried to breed the Shih Tzu to resemble the lion, at least it was their idea of what a Lion looked like. Yellow was more likely to have been the Chinese favored color.

The white blaze, collar, socks and tail-tip combine to create a highly prized ensemble.

It is most likely that westerners had a very difficult time acquiring the yellow-colored Shih Tzu since it was regarded as being so precious. Therefore, the first Shih Tzu to appear in the west were the black and white, grey and white, brindle and white and a few solid blacks. Very few of the precious yellow-colored Shih Tzu were first acquired by the westerners.

The same holds true for the very small sized Shih Tzu. The small size Shih Tzu, which were most likely the Imperial and Teacup Shih Tzu, as many of us commonly nickname them today, (the Shih Tzu under 9 pounds in weight) were not readily available for the westerners. The westerners had access mainly to the larger size Shih Tzu that the Imperial Palace had sent out as rejects of their breeding program. There were a few able to get hold of the very tiny Shih Tzu we now commonly nickname the Imperials and the Teacup size, but not many, as this was the favored and most treasured size of the Imperial Palace breedings. The smaller size in Shih Tzu was a major goal of the Imperial Palace breedings lead by Empress Dowager.

Today’s AKC standard, however, states the weight of a Shih Tzu in order to qualify for the show ring championships must be between 9 and 16 pounds.

This article is FREE to publish with resource box.

Connie Limon is a Shih Tzu breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

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Owning a dog is one of the most rewarding experiences a person can have in their lifetime, but having a dog is much more than the occasional walk around the block or playing fetch in the yard. There are many other responsibilities that one must consider in order to be a good dog owner. Your dog’s health is a major concern to any good pet owner and in this article we will concentrate on some preventable threats to your pet.

As winter ends and spring starts, so do different types of threats to your dog. Obviously, as the weather starts getting nicer, your pet spends more time outdoors and is more susceptible to the these threats. It is important to be alert for ticks, mosquitoes and micro organisms that spread diseases that are harmful to your dog’s health. Ticks normally live in wooded areas or in tall brush and do not transmit bacteria through the air, but by biting the dog. Some other threats are summarized below:

Lyme disease- is a tick-borne bacterial disease and it can cause lameness, kidney damage and death.

Leptospirosis- this is the #1 cause of acute renal failure, “lepto” is a deadly bacterial disease that is spread by contact with urine from other pets, wildlife and livestock and can be transmitted from dogs to people.

Rabies- is a fatal viral disease transmitted by saliva most often through bite wounds and is a threat to both humans and animals.

Heartworm Disease- is a mosquito-borne disease that is preventable and attacks multiple organs and will cause death if untreated.

As a dog owner, there are many things you can do to minimize the risk to your pet. Brush your dog often and visually inspect your animal especially after an outing in the woods. Additionally, use tick and flea treatments and medications that your veterinarian recommends to kill these harmful pests. Furthermore, your veterinarian can suggest how to protect your pet from lyme disease through vaccination.

There is another important factor in taking care of your dog: twice-a-year wellness exams. You see, dogs age faster than we do and major health changes can occur in a short amount of time. Moreover, your dog is living longer, which increases the chance of potentially serious illnesses during their lifetime.

These wellness exams can help your veterinarian diagnose, treat or prevent problems before they become life threatening. Additionally, these exams allow the veterinarian to discuss nutrition, your dog’s behavior or other concerns you may have.

In return for all this attention, your dog will reciprocate with unconditional love, friendship and affection. Try to educate yourself to protect your dog from these and other harmful threats. If we were to think in terms of finances, what a wonderful return on your investment!

Robert Benson operates http://www.ezshoppinghere.com a website devoted to helping shoppers find unique gift ideas in unique places. Shop at one of our malls or try our specialty shops and find Irish jewelry, nesting dolls, wildlife sculptures, vinyl records, plus size apparel, and much more.

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Chewing is an annoying but natural part of a puppy’s development. It is very similar to teething in babies and the chewing stages are necessary to help with teething issues. Expecting a puppy to not chew is not reasonable, but they can be taught to chew the right thing, rather than your shoes and furniture. Adult dogs that chew often are bored or are suffering from a separation anxiety disorder. Usually the adult dogs that chew can be taught to curb their behavior or chew appropriately relatively easily. Some will require professional assistance from a trainer or dog behavior specialist.

Stages of growth

Puppies chew when they are teething. This usually occurs sometime before the six-month stage, depending on the specific breed of dog. Some of the larger breeds may continue chewing past the six-month stage and some breeds are just known for chewing behaviors. Regardless of the breed up to six months will be problematic for most puppies. There are several steps that owners can take to minimize the damage that may occur with chewing behaviors:

? Puppy proof your home. This means removing all hanging wires, electrical cords, curtain pulls and other dangling objects. Hanging plants that touch the ground can also be temping to chew on and can also be poisonous.

? Keep chewable items in drawers or out of the puppies reach. For example, toys, shoes, remote controls, books, backpacks and briefcases, telephones and even laptop computers need to put away or kept on tables or desks well out of the puppies reach.

? Provide a wide variety of chew toys while you are gone. This means different shapes and sizes. Thick pieces of cotton rope with knots in the ends are great for chewing on. Heavy rubber balls or Nylabone chew toys are safe and virtually indestructible.

? Freezing dog teething rings and leaving them in the crate or doggy area of the house provide relieve to the gums and entertainment as well.

If you notice the puppy chewing something that is not correct don’t punish them. Simply say “No” and substitute what you want them to chew on. Praise them when they are chewing on the right things. Make sure you say something like “Good boy/girl for chewing on your ball (rope, toy, stick)”. This helps the puppy learn the word for what he is chewing on. Later you will be able to say, “Get the ball/stick/rope” and the puppy will know what you mean.

Toys to avoid

Some toys, even those sold in pet stores, should never be used with a puppy. Toys that are flimsy or have many parts that can be chewed off pose choking hazards. Toys that have long strings or ropes that could become wrapped around the puppy’s neck are potentially deadly toys.

Stuffed animals are appropriate for some older puppies and dogs but for younger puppies that are chewing constantly the stuffed toy will quickly be shredded. This leaves parts of cloth and the stuffing material that can be swallowed leading to gastrointestinal blockages and possible choking issues.

Natural bones, even raw bones, are not generally advised for puppies. They are usually too hard for the puppy teeth and lead to splintering and breakage of the existing teeth. In addition the puppies will be more likely to try to swallow any splinters and this can result in the bone splinters becoming lodged in the gums or the throat. If you do wish to allow your puppy to chew on bones be sure they are raw beef bones that are from a joint. Never allow your dog to eat pork bones and also never allow raw or cooked poultry bones of any kind. Supervise the puppy while he is chewing the bone and remove it at any sign of splintering or when the bone becomes small enough that the puppy might try to swallow it.

The chewing phase in puppies, like the teething phase in children, will pass. By taking a few precautions with your household items, supplying lots of alternative chewing toys and teaching your puppy what to chew on the stage will pass without any problems now or in the future.

Kelly Marshall is a popular contributor at http://www.ohmydogsupplies.com - where you can find dog beds, dog steps, pet ramps, and more unique dog gear that you’ll never find at your local pet store.

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Most people understand or know a bit of first aid for humans but many dog owners are not as familiar with the basic first aid for their dogs. While several of the techniques are very similar it is important to review them and to keep basic first aid supplies for dogs in your house or with you when you are on an outing. A small first aid supply kit kept in your car can be a live saver for your pet.

There are several fairly common issues that can arise when you are out with your dog that require first aid attention. As with all injuries it is important to get the dog to a vet as soon as possible.

Heat stroke - many dogs, especially those with short muzzles (brach cephalic) dogs such as Pugs, Bulldogs, Shih Tzu, Lhasa Apso, Boxers and Pekingese can suffer from heat stroke. This occurs because the nasal passages are not long enough to allow proper cooling of the air. If you notice your dog begins to wheeze or even stagger and cough immediately discontinue the activity and get the dog into the shade or in a cool area. Sponge the dog with cool water and encourage them to drink small amounts.

Burns - burns are relatively rare on dogs but occasionally happen when camping and when there are fires. Be sure to immediately apply a wet, cold compress to the burn area and apply gentle pressure. Do not use a dry cloth as it can cause problems if the area seals over with the cloth in the tissue. A moist cloth will prevent this from happening as much as possible. Never use butter or other fatty or oily substance on a burn. Keep the area clean and free from debris until it can be treated by a vet.

Cuts - cuts to the body, head and feet should immediately be covered with a sterile bandage or cloth and gentle pressure applied to stop the bleeding. The dog should be immobilized in a blanket or towel to prevent any movement. Wrapping a dog in a towel or blanket can be difficult and it usually requires more than one person, especially if the dog is panicking or in pain.

Objects stuck in the mouth or throat - often dogs will find bit of bone or even sticks that splinter and cause choking. If your dog is pawing at its mouth, drooling or salivating excessively or constantly working its jaw there may well be something stuck in the back of the mouth or throat. Do not attempt to pull out the object, rather immobilize the dogs muzzle using a strip of cloth or a muzzle. Never make the bandage too tight as this can cause breathing problems. Immobilize the dog and take them to a vet immediately.

Eating Poisonous substances - Locate the item the dog ate and bring it with you to the vet. Do not attempt to force the dog to vomit as this can burn the esophagus and stomach and cause further complications. Immediately transport the dog to a vet. Calling ahead to let the vet know what the dog has eaten helps the vet prepare for the emergency. In addition the vet may be able to give further instructions on what to do.

Frostbite - dogs that are left too long in cold conditions can get frostbite, usually on their ears, tails and feet. Bring the dog immediately indoors and apply warm, not hot, compresses to the area. Do not use a hair dryer or other direct heat source. Immediately take the dog to the vet to avoid tissue loss and permanent damage.

Many vets, colleges and grooming and training professionals offer courses in pet first aid. Plan to attend one and learn more about what you can do to help your dog in an emergency situation.

Kelly Marshall is a popular contributor at http://www.ohmydogsupplies.com - where you can find dog beds, dog steps, pet ramps, and more unique dog gear that you’ll never find at your local pet store.

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Under normal circumstances your dog will be able to eat and profit from almost anything you give him, including almost all of the food items forbidden by rumor and fear. Milk, for example, will not cause worms in dogs, any more than it does in you. Raw meat will not cause worms any more than cooked, (which is not at all), nor will it make him vicious.

If you feed your dog nothing but raw meat he will thereby suffer from an unbalanced diet, malnutrition, and may get irritable and touchy. One item that is not recommended is pork in any large amount. Pork and particularly pork fat, is an extremely rich meat and can easily overburden a dogs system.

One superstition concerns raw eggs and the dog’s coat. People will go to considerable expense to feed a pup or the adult dog raw eggs, sometimes two or three a day, in the hope that a shiny coat will result. There is, unfortunately nothing to it. It just does not work. Neither will garlic or onions have any effect on intestinal worms; they can only be stopped by medication. In short, what you feed him nourishes him. If he needs medical treatment, give him medicines.

On the positive side, beef and more fresh beef can do him nothing but good. Beef is the best source of protein, and good beef muscle cuts can be bought relatively cheap. Beef bones are almost without exception good for dogs, especially the heavy long and knuckle bones. The only exception being to smaller breeds that may become choked due to their smaller throats.

Bones will also provide mouth exercise and aid in removing plaque build-up on teeth. Once in the stomach, bones are rapidly dissolved and digested. The dog’s stomach acids work things over rapidly reducing almost anything to digestibility. This, incidentally, is why you should not worry if your dog wolfs his food without seeming to chew it all. All the digestion goes on in his highly durable and efficient stomach.

Randy Jones and his partner Brent Jones have been in the pet industry for a long time. Recently they formed http://www.joncopets.com. On the site, customers can shop for the latest dog collars, dog clothes, pet supplies and more. Check them out at http://www.joncopets.com

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Your dog is fat. OK, possibly not.

But there’s a very good chance he or she is, and you don’t even know it.

Statistics vary, but veterinarians report that as many as 25 - 44% of all dogs are overweight, and that obesity is the number-one canine health disorder. Obesity is defined as weighing over 15% more than the standard accepted weight for the dog’s height.

With nearly half of our dogs weighing in on the heavy side, it’s no surprise, then, that obesity-related conditions are on the rise within the pet population. These conditions include diabetes mellitus and orthopedic, musculoskeletal, cardiovascular, gastrointestinal, endocrine, respiratory, immune and reproductive disorders. These can be devastating conditions for your dog to live with.

Doctors ascribe the rise in obesity to a combination of the general lack of fussiness of dogs, their natural gorging behavior, and insufficient exercise.

And since dogs don’t do their own grocery shopping or prepare their own meals, we must add to this a prevailing ignorance among their owners in providing a nutritious, well-balanced, calorie-controlled diet.

Do you know if your dog is fat or fit? Do you know her daily caloric requirements? Do you know what factors may mitigate those daily caloric requirements?

Did you know regular dog food is packed with sugar and fat to make the toxic crap they put in it palatable?

A healthy dog is ready to eat at any time. Some dogs quite literally can eat while flat on their side and more or less asleep. Therefore, it is pointless to use your dog’s begging behavior as any indicator of how much to feed him.

Knowing how many calories he needs and how that translates into food will help keep him trim and healthy. Energy needs for the dog change throughout his life, increasing the more active he becomes, and, as you might surmise, decreasing as the dog reaches his senior years.

Your vet will help you determine if your dog’s weight is on target, or if she is headed for fat city, and all diet-related considerations should definitely be discussed with your vet before introducing any major changes into your dog’s nutritional sphere. But, before your next office visit, you can do an assessment to determine (albeit imprecisely) your dog’s general body condition and weight.

Can the ribs be easily felt with slight fat cover, or are they difficult to feel under moderate or thick fat cover?

From the side view, do you see an abdominal tuck?

Is there thickening at the tail base?

From the overhead view, is there a well-proportioned waist?

Or, from the overhead view, does she have a marked hourglass shape? (an indicator of being underweight)

Or, from the overhead view, is the back slightly or markedly broadened at the waist? (indicators of being moderately to severely overweight)

Is your dog slow to rise or move around?

Is she reluctant to exercise, or does she tire easily with activity?

Individual metabolism, exercise, age, environment and overall health will determine what your dog really needs to remain lean and healthy. Since your dog can only have so many calories every day, it is important to pack lots of nutrition, bulk and appeal into those calories.

Our wildly popular Dog Food SECRETS? information products can help you step-by-step overcome your nutritional naivete.

Embracing this information doesn’t mean you have to prepare every meal with a set of scales on the counter, no. Do it a few times and you can do it forever.

After you determine your dog’s caloric needs, the ideal solution to meet those needs is to prepare your dog’s food at home, where you can have total control over the caloric and nutritional content.

Our books can help you there, too — as it includes a collection of easy, healthful, natural and delicious recipes created with your dog’s palate and welfare in mind. In fact the Silver and Gold packages include over 200 easy-to-make healthy recipes.

Andrew Lewis

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Animals unlike humans cannot express their feelings and they cannot go on making demands and tell their owners when they need food. They are animals. Pet keepers bring home fish, cats, dogs, rabbits, hamsters and birds home all the time eagerly but sadly, they fail to take proper care of their pets because of which their animals die. If pets can not speak out, pet keepers themselves should be humane enough to understand their pets heartily and give them their rights.

Some basic and simple tips for pet keepers can ensure a healthy and loving relation between themselves and their pets. As far as dogs are concerned it is advisable to keep it in a proper dog house which should be comfortable and cozy enough for it to reside in. Whenever you take out your dog for a walk make sure you leash it. They are playful animals, they love to jump and mingle with other animals and chase things. So avoid any bad circumstances it is always better to play it safe. Cats are well mannered and they are less messy than dogs. However they too need proper care. Dogs and cats should be bathed regularly and their utensils cleaned on daily bases. If your dog or cat ever urinate or excrete in your lounge, you should never leave it unclean. It is highly unhygienic for animals and pet keepers both.

The animals that you keep in cages need a little more attention. They are enslaved so it is better to make them at least feel free. Birds or rabbits should never be kept in small cages. They should be big enough so that your birds can easily flutter their wings and fly about. It should be big enough so that your rabbit can run about and hide when it wants to hide. Animals kept at home should provide them with a sense of being in their natural habitats. This way they feel free and they live happily. Their cages, their beddings should be cleansed thoroughly and regularly.

Animals should be vaccinated whenever they need to be. They should be taken for regular medical checkups so that they stay health and energetic. Animals too should be kept in a secured area and never be left out on their own. Pets are unlike the stray animals; they are vulnerable and require special attention. So pet keepers should make sure they take care of their pets the way they should be kept. They can always keep themselves updated through internet and magazines to acknowledge and fulfill their pet’s needs.

Jonathon Hardcastle writes articles for http://etotallypets.com/ - In addition, Jonathon also writes articles for http://supershoppingtips.com/ and http://iclothingcenter.com/.

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